When a Good Beer just isn’t Good Enough
Aug 22 '01
The Bottom Line Mash Beer shouts out something new, but is actually a slight variation of a German lager. Once I get past my prejudice with this one it’s a pretty good beer.
I couldn’t decide between 2 titles so I decided to drop my other one in here too:
What the Hell(es) is Mash Beer?
What exactly is mash beer? I have to admit to a great deal of curiosity when this month’s selection from the Michael Jackson Real Beer Tour was announced. I always have high expectations and an unrestrained anticipation of my monthly shipments; after all, these beers are selected by Michael Jackson, the undisputed beer master.
I now sit here having drunk half a dozen of these (not all at once) with mixed feelings. There’s a very good beer to be enjoyed, but there’s also a great deal of hype and the manner in which I received it, that leaves something of a disappointment. Mash Beer is a refreshing and flavorful lager, and to set the right tone I would have liked to say what I liked about the beer first. However, I did find that the natural flow and order of things forced me to throw out all the complaints first.
So back to my original question:
What is Mash Beer?
The name instantly makes me think of something like Root Beer, or organic ale, and of course the mash makes my mind wander and even think of potato. Actually mashed potato does have a loose tie in to the name, but nothing to do with the beer. Of course, most beer fans will know that “mash” in the brewing process refers to the primary stage of mixing grain and water, but then that’s the same for every beer, so why should this one earn the title Mash Beer?
Mash Beer is not a Style
The name Mash actually refers to the brewery-restaurant where this beer is the flagship. The beer is brewed by a contractor to meet demand. In Michael’s words it’s “a restaurant that would have fashionable dishes like mash (potatoes) on the menu”. Hence my first disappointment, a label that shouted out “MASH BEER”, a beer that promised to be something new, some kind of experimental style was actually just named after the company that brewed it. Nowhere on the label does it suggest a style; not even a hint of lager or ale, this is mash beer.
All the Hype of Corona
The labeling is actually pretty simple, but just introduces itself to me as yuppie beer, maybe aimed at the “alcopop” or Corona market. A clear thin adhesive label runs up the middle of the bottle, with the gold-lettered lower-case words “mash beer” in a square “Westminster” font. The word “mash” also appears in an orange dot stuck to the neck of the bottle (maybe the company’s logo) that looks more like something from a mobile telecommunications company. Still if that’s what it takes to get people to drink your beer and maybe even pay more for it … after all it’s what’s in the bottle that counts. Hey at least the bottle is brown.
Not Something Completely Different
My accompanying notes class this as either a Dortmunder or Munich Pale (Helles). OK, these beer styles may be a little harder than usual to come by, but I can find German versions in grocery stores and there are even US microbrewed interpretations of these styles. The only thing unusual and unique about this beer is the fact that it’s brewed in England, land of the flavorless, light imported lager.
When I pay $35 a month for a beer club I want to be taken by surprise, reeducated, overwhelmed. It appears to me that this one is more of a promotion for a local brewer trying to get an introduction to the US market. And although this is a beer of respectable quality, I feel that I have just paid $35 for a barbecue 12-pack. I sent an email to Real Beer stating that in future I want more of the Wit Beer they sent me, the Belgian Tripel, the exceptional Mexican Casta Morena, a German Kölsch, an Alt bier, a Leipziger Gose, or even that seaweed beer that Richard Drew wrote of a while back.
On the Positive this is a lager from England
I think I’m done complaining now, so welcome back to those who just wanted to find out what this beer was like. Despite all my apprehensions, prejudices and intent to dislike this beer it actually tastes pretty good. The headbrewer did much of his learning in Germany, at the world renowned Weihenstephan brewing school, so you could say that he knows a little about what a German lager should be, probably more than most in the UK. In the UK most breweries are ale specialists and either import a lager to complete their portfolio or brew a foreign one under license. Read latakiahaze’s reviews if you want to know more about the poor quality of lagers in England.
Specifications
Malts: Pilsener, Munich and Carahell
Hops: Perle, Hallertau-Hersbruck and Saaz
IBU’s: 23-25
Yeast: Lager strain from Weihenstephan, Bavaria
Alcohol: 3.8% ABW, 4.8% ABV
Gravity: 1044 (11 Plato)
Tasting Notes
Mash Beer (I cringe every time I type the name) pours to a pale straw-like shade of golden, with a thin soft white foam, the faintest of haze, and a very moderate level of carbonation.
The aroma is pretty pleasing and inviting, fresh and flowery, with slight hints of herbs. It shows a mild maltiness, is moderately fruity/lemony with a little hop spice.
The palate is remarkably soft and smooth, mild, light to medium bodied, while there’s a slight chewiness as well as a little tingling carbonation, more so at the tip.
It starts out very sweet with signs of sweet lemon, almost hinting towards orange, with a smooth honey-like maltiness, and a mid-palate fruitiness that suggests (but doesn’t quite shout out) apricots. The honey and the lighter lemon do play a nice balancing act together, while there’s a tangy bitterness to the finish that is also slightly dry. A mild bitterness lingers, but the honey and lemon sweetness shine through, leaving a very pleasantly satisfying aftertaste.
Verdict
Once I get past the image and hype of this beer, as well as the disappointment at my beer club, there’s actually something to be enjoyed. This is a very well executed lager and certainly makes an impressive alternative. It’s certainly a refreshing and flavorful lager that is ideal for summer and the outdoors. However, mine have become more of a, from the bottle, garden/lawnmower beer than the gourmet beverage I expected.
UK drinkers looking for a quality lager should give this a try. I feel that we probably have a little more choice in the USA with beers like Pilsner Urquell and Bitburger widely available at reasonable prices. The look of this beer, suggesting something new, something trendy, makes me assume a higher price, but may convince many an unknowing drinker that this is the beer to drink, and they’d certainly be doing a lot better than the Corona crowd. If it comes to the States as a $7.99 6-pack, I’d probably buy it again, anything more (my 6-pack cost $17.50) I wouldn’t bother.
As for Real Beer, they are on trial. Another unimaginative selection will lead to my cancellation.
Ratings
4 Stars
Recommended: Yes
Advice to the Brewers
Take some advice from Gordon Biersch and Sudwerk Hubsch; Get a real label and a real name.
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