A Hybrid that Challenged my Prejudice
Sep 01 '01
The Bottom Line I’m not a fan of Black & Tans, but the diversity and complexity of the two ales combine well in Black Eye. Definitely worth trying despite my prejudice.
Black Eye Ale, Mendocino Brewing Company
Black Eye Ale is a blend of names and a blend of brews from Northern California’s Mendocino Brewing Company. The company has been around since 1983 and in addition to its plant in Ukiah, CA has expanded to an additional brewery at Saratoga Springs, NY. This means that availability is pretty much nationwide. You can get more information on availability from the company’s website:
www.mendobrew.com
The Concept
Black Eye ale is a black and tan made from two of Mendocino’s ale. There is no official description of this at the website, but the two contributing ales are described as follows:
Eye of the Hawk is an excellent, strong, rich bodied ale that is "Bottle Conditioned" to perfection. "Eye" is coppery reddish-amber in color and its unique taste is the result of a judicious mix of caramel and pale malted barley, balanced with Cluster, Cascade and Saaz hops. This gives the Eye its luxurious flavor, substantial mouth-feel and that slightly dry finish. Eye of the Hawk has garnered a cult following that is enviable.
Black Hawk Stout retains the big traditional flavors of an Irish-style stout and yet offers a refreshing dry crispness that is rare in many dark beers. "Bottle Conditioned" Black Hawk Stout is replete with a rich, roasted malt flavor that makes this not-so-heavy stout, creamy and ever so smooth. It has a subtlety that surprises and converts even the most reticent stout drinker.
I have never tried either of the brews that go into this one but initial impressions from the descriptions above are that this would be a little fuller in body and richer in flavor than usual.
My Own Prejudice
I wouldn’t have bought this myself. When my wife read Black Hawk on my wish list, she thought I’d made a mistake and picked up Black Eye. It actually took me a second look at the bottle before I realized
I don’t really agree with the idea of black and tan in a bottle, as you can buy the individual brews yourself and experiment with different kinds and different quantities. Also the fascination behind the black and tan is that with a careful pour, the stout will sit on top of the lighter ale. Maybe someday, someone will invent a bottled version that can do this. My opinion, is that Mendocino should have just sold the two bottles together, you know like liquor companies will sometimes sell their product with a bottle of mixer. To me, the excitement of the craft brewing industry is creativity. The only creativity in this one is at the final bottling stage.
This beer did however turn into something of a surprise, with a complexity that made for an enjoyable relaxing concoction.
Tasting Notes
It was the end of the day when I popped the cap on this 750 ml bottle that had all intentions of being a nightcap. I should note that the cap suggested, “use an opener”. I had to chuckle as I have yet to see a twist off on a bottle this size.
The beer is very impressive on the pour with its thick blanket of beige foam and dark reddish plum colored body. In spite of the deep color and thickness of the body, the benefits of bottle conditioning are evident with good signs of carbonation.
The nose is deep and predominantly malty giving me reminders of the fig rolls I used to eat as a kid. The complexity of two ales is more than evident with roasted malt, coffee, caramel, pale malts, as well as a deep berry and plum-like fruitiness. There are good signs of the Pacific and European hops that need a little persuasion to get out from behind the malt but once released show a fine herbal aroma.
You get a good feel of the blend on the palate. The smooth, heavy foamy stout like character combines well with the overflowing drinkability of the lighter ale. The carbonation is very light, but the most impressive part is a wonderful smooth creamy silkiness.
The flavors also benefit from the impressive complexity of the two brews. There’s the initial roasted coffee and creamy flavors, a touch of caramel and a burnt alcohol warmth towards the end. There’s also some refreshing cassis like fruitiness in the middle, while a tangy hop bitterness makes for a well-balanced finish. The tangy hop lingers well into the aftertaste but there’s also a comforting smoothness thrown in as well as a little roasted coffee like dryness.
Verdict
I’m still not a black and tan drinker, but have to confess to being impressed with the complexity and satisfaction achieved by Black Eye. The lighter flavors, tangy hops and refreshing drinkability of Eye of the Hawk make an impressive pairing for the fuller bodied palate and richer roasty flavors of the Black Hawk Stout.
I still won’t give in and encourage people to buy black and tans. I really think everyone should make their own. This ale however is too good not to recommend, but you could just go out and buy one bottle of Black Hawk and one bottle of Eye of the Hawk.
This ale is a perfect late night beer, be that simply as a nightcap or with a movie. It has the mellow comforting relaxation qualities of most stouts making this a great dessert or after dinner beer. The lighter mix also makes this a good accompaniment to food. Try it with braised lamb shank, meatloaf, or venison all of which should be smothered in demi-glace or gravy. I’ve heard many suggestions of floating ice cream in beer and this is probably one of the few times I might be willing to give that a go.
4 Stars
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Epinions.com ID:
andaryl
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Member: Andrew Smith
Location: The Desert, So Cal
Reviews written: 219
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