A Decent Kölsch beer brewed in the USA
Written: Aug 10 '01 (Updated Aug 11 '01)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Refreshing, nice subtle fruitiness, rare style
Cons: Its simplicity may be its shortcoming
The Bottom Line: Many say that decent Kölsch’s can’t be found outside of Cologne. Well I found Goose Island’s version to be very enjoyable, with its refreshing easy drinkability and subtle ale-like fruitiness.
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| andaryl's Full Review: Goose Island Summer Time German-Style Kolsch Bier |
Many breweries make seasonal offerings to appeal to the tastes and trends of the beer consuming public. Back in December I was pretty new at this beer-reviewing thing, and at that time trying to seek an all-encompassing definition of winter ales. What I now realize is that there is no single definition of a seasonal brew, as different brewers decide upon different styles of beer that are appropriate for the time of year. Redhook decided to make their summer choice a blonde ale, Samuel Adams decided upon a variation of a Belgian White, while Sierra Nevada took a big step for an ale brewer, but a less original choice to the American public with a pilsner. Goose Island has made a much more interesting choice in one of the lesser-known beer styles, Kölsch.
Kölsch
Kölsch is one of only two beer styles protected by an appellation (the other is Trappist), which means that it can only be brewed in Köln (Cologne) and its surrounding areas. This covers 26 breweries, and since they do little bottling, their beers are rarely seen outside of that area.
Most drinkers at first sighting a Kölsch. with its quietly unassuming, pilsner like looks would be surprised to hear that it’s actually a top-fermented ale. Lately I’ve been marveling at a few lagers that achieve the character of an ale. Well here’s an ale that achieves the thirst-quenching drinkability of a lager. It should come as no surprise that these lager-resembling ales come from the most imaginative lager producing Germans.
According to one beer judging guide (The Beer Enthusiast’s Guide, Gregg Smith):
“Kölsch is a blond Alt-style beer with a light to medium body. It is pale to dark straw in color at 3.5-5 SRM. Hops are medium to assertive at 20-30 IBU. Gravity = 1.040 – 1.045 (that would be 4-5% ABV).”
Not many German Kölsch’s make it out of their local area. I did remember reading one of bruguru’s reviews that made mention of Reisdorf Kölsch, available on draft at Redbones, Boston. My subsequent enquiries among various chat groups lead me to believe that it is the only one available. However several US and Japanese microbrewers have started to brew their own “Kölsch-style” beers.
Goose Island Summertime German-Style Kölsch Beer
This is a lengthy name, probably aimed at marketing more than legal protection that puts some of Portland Brewing Company’s beer names to shame.
Brewer’s Quote
“The Perfect Quencher”
“….our Summertime is brewed according to the same process (as a Kölsch), using only the finest malts and German hops. The result is a perfect brew for hot Summer days and warm summer nights.”
Specifics
Alcohol Strength: 4.2% ABV (about the same as a light beer)
Bitterness: 28 IBU (mild but in the typical Kölsch range)
Color: 5.0 SRM described as bright golden (a slight exaggeration)
Availability: Draft and bottle, April through September.
Tasting Notes
I would describe the color as a much paler version of gold than that of the brewers. It certainly is an appealing and refreshing sight, with a nice clarity that’s almost transparent, well carbonated with a soft delicate foam.
The aroma is mild and subtle, but I get instant signs of malt, a little biscuity and buttery, with a slight blueberry fruitiness and a very faint hop spice.
It’s nice and soft on the palate with a gentle mouthfeel and plenty of spritzy carbonation. It’s somewhere from light verging on medium bodied.
The flavors are very clean throughout, offering the briefest hints of berry-like fruitiness, my taste buds are still learning but I would guess something of a cranberry, raspberry and cassis mix, without being particularly assertive. There’s a mild hop bitterness in the finish, which does leave a slight flowery aftertaste, but the sweet maltiness comes though much more pronounced.
Verdict
Many say that USA versions do not match up to their Köln counterparts. If this is true I would certainly like to check some of these original versions out. Goose Island’s version, while not doing too much to challenge the taste buds is a thoroughly enjoyable and refreshing summertime ale.
I would anticipate hearing many a beer drinker complain of the simplicity of this style, but I disagree. It does a great job of quenching the thirst, while offering a slight subtle, fruitiness that you would not find in a pilsner. I’ve never tried a German Kölsch but I would certainly recommend this version as a decent introduction to the style. Its cleanliness and malty character, would also give me little hesitation in pushing one into the hand of a mainstream lager drinker.
Food/Occasion
I read that these beers are great stomach settlers and for that reason I had mine (the first bottle) as a pre-dinner aperitif. Its light character would also work well with a lunchtime lightly dressed salad. It’s certainly a great beer for the outdoors and sunshine, and would make an ideal accompaniment to picnic appetizers.
Note that these beers are bottle-conditioned, and the label states best by December. With this in mind I may go out and buy a couple more 6-packs before they stop brewing this one. In the desert summertime does not end in September.
Recommended:
Yes
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andaryl
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Member: Andrew Smith
Location: The Desert, So Cal
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